Tain L’Hermitage, in the Rhone Valley of France, is home to one of the world’s best chocolate makers – Valrhona. Tim and I spent two days in this small town (population 6,000), which was a good break from the larger cities we had visited. On the downside though, it was winter and it appeared that many of the shop owners were still on Christmas break so most things were closed, so we took many long walks along the river and caught up on some much needed rest.
Another small lesson in visiting small town France is that the town closes down from 2-4pm which we learned the hard way; leaving lunch until 2pm was a bad idea! Luckily however, we had stumbled upon the most glorious pastry shop that morning so had stocked up on beautiful pastries! Franck Broyer’s pastries were probably one of the best that we had in France. This shop completely redeemed the town in the fact that all other shops were closed in the town… we really only needed this one!


The first thing I bought was a ‘Mille Feuille’, and it was amazing. Tim had a bite, and we had to go back immediately to get him his own. The ‘thousands of layers’ of pastry were flaky, but not crumbly and the silky custard was heavenly. The slice had a wonderfully decadent (but not sickly) layer of icing on the top to finish it off.


The shop lady got to know us well in our brief visit to the village. I think we went five times in the two days that we were there, so she would giggle every time we set foot in the shop.
The actual reason for being in Tain L’Hermitage was because we had been invited for a private tour of the Valrhona chocolate making factory. This was a fabulous opportunity as the factory is not open for public tours. Unfortunately, we were not permitted to take photos on the tour, so I don’t have any photos to include here.
Valrhona is recognized as one of the best chocolate makers in the world, and I can see why. Their attention to detail, from the harvesting of the cacao beans through to the packaging is exceptional. In addition to the quality of the beans used, they develop the flavour profile of the chocolate by increasing the conching time to create a spectacular product. One of the very cool things about the tour was the different aromas resulting from each step in the chocolate making process. The roasting room had a warm coffee aroma to it, where the conching space had a heady chocolate aroma to it.
After a tour of the factory, our wonderful host took us to Valrhona’s Ecole De Chocolat which was a chocolatier’s dream commercial kitchen, complete with mobile marble working stations, an airbrushing room, and all types of equipment. There was a tasting room with an espresso machine and a library of chocolate and pastry books – I could have lost myself in there! I could picture my heroes sitting in that room discussing their latest projects and new ideas. I am sure that it is a room where great ideas were born!
To finish off the tour, we went to the Valrhona factory store. We were greeted with a warm cup of Celaya (Valrhona’s drinking chocolate) which was perfect on that cold, rainy day. We purchased a lot of chocolate at the store, but the most exciting purchase I made was a beautiful Valrhona recipe book, which I started to read as soon as we got back to our hotel. The foreward of the book was written by Pierre Herme- one of my chocolate idols- so that was a very good start!
Following are a few photos that we took at the store. Next up- a posting about our chocolate adventures in Paris.






















